I am currently in Bragança, a small town (population approx 100,000) a 5 hour bus ride
(half the time in car) from Belem near the coast of Pará It looks like it is
in the middle of nowhere, and there is very little about it on the internet.
See if you can spot it on the map:
Bragança is HOT. It is not just hot, but it is also very
HUMID. And where it is humid, there is also RAIN. In tropical countries, it does
not just rain – black clouds swoop down upon the sky every afternoon at a
moment’s notice and open up to the most thunderous downfall imaginable. The
rain consequently makes washing clothes a day-long activity of running in and
out and in and out. All these elements mixed together make for the perfect
recipe – MOSQUITO heaven.
As you can imagine, I took a little while to adjust to these
conditions. Check out my leg mauled by mosquitos (and this was just the one):
I woke up in the morning in a hot sweat and itching like mad
with the above leg, despite having slept with a sheet, pyjamas and a mosquito
net with the ventilator on full blast. I go downstairs to have a shower. There
is no water.
Peeved and still sweaty, I go to make breakfast. Coffee has
run out. I fetch the cereal from the shelf. Out runs a mouse. (I like to think
it was a mouse. It seemed too small to be a rat, but I am probably deluding
myself). I check the back of the packet – it had gnawed a little hole and
crawled and defecated right in amongst the flakes. Out goes the cereal. Lesson
learned – do not leave anything out, even on shelves. All food must be in
fridge or wrapped in numerous plastic bags dangling high above any surface.
I am down to my last pair of knickers and need to wash my
clothes. Even my clean clothes smelt of mould- that’s humidity for you. I fetch
my washing, bundle in the machine and turn on the machine. The machine does not
turn on because there is still no water.
I attempt to use the internet. Computer says no. (Internet
connection for my first month was incredibly sketchy – it sporadically
connected for a short time just to tease, and then decided enough was enough
for a few more hours. Apparently this was the company’s method of informing its
clients that they hadn’t paid the bills, instead of writing a stroppy letter.)
It starts to rain. My room does not have glass in the
window, so the rain splashes in. There is a leak. Rainwater now occupies half
of my room.
I leave the house sweaty, itchy and foul tempered and wonder
how I am to survive 3 months in this inferno.
Mariana, an AmazonArt volunteer, made me a delicious lunch.
Life’s woes were instantly solved.
One month later
It is incredible how quickly one adjusts. I became thoroughly
accustomed to having a wet floor and the mice/rats were quickly disposed of with
a few juicy pellets. Internet was still sketchy (the wifi had stopped working
and I had to make a choice between internet and tv), but I rather like the
excuse of ‘no internet’ to avoid wasting time idling away at writing blogs.
The heat, although still hot, does not bother me so – I have
taken to the Paraense way of life by having a huge lunch and collapsing in a
shady hammock to digest during the heat of the afternoon. My American friend
Sara provided me with 40% DEET to scare away mosquitos (and humans – I had a
few complaints about the unpleasant ‘eau de gringo’), which has to be sprayed
even underneath my clothes. Now, rainy season is over – the summer here is
drier, slightly cooler (still over 30 degrees and humid) and there are fewer
mosquitos.
My housemates – a
couple Fagner and Paula - are brilliant people (and even more so for putting me up
freeloading for over a month). Their house – a funky yellow setup with an
outside kitchen full of plants and plenty of hammock space- is situated right
in front of the river Caete. Fagner is local, Paula (the blondest girl
in Bragança – she is half French) from Rio. Fagner works as the Minister of Culture in Bragança and
Paula is on the environmental team. I can now see why she agreed to accompany
him to this town in the middle of nowhere – it has grown on me a lot.
Despite being such a small town, there seems to be quite a
bit going on. It is a University town, with its academic specialties in Bio Sciences,
which means there is a large crowd of educated environmental folk. When
anything happens in town, everyone knows about it and makes the effort to go,
unlike London when each day requires a painful decision between so many options
that you more often than not go for none. The Vacaria, a cosy hang-out
with quirky artwork and tasty food and cocktails, is by far the best venue in
town (acai and cachaca cocktail = recipe for instant sleep). There are a surprising amount of artistic
opportunities available for such a small place – during my short time here,
there have been numerous dance, choral and percussion workshops. Bragança was
the host of a 5-day long free music course (during which I studied conducting) which
catered for musicians from the entire region of North Brazil. The spotlight was on Bragança as the town celebrated its 400 year anniversary- July witnessed a
whirlwind of shows with top Brazilian artists and talented local musicians.
The beach at Ajuruteua is a 40 minute drive away through a
lush ecosystem of mangroves and lakes, with bright red birds (guará) scattering the skies. At first
the beach was a slight disappointment. Compared to the breathtaking beauty of
the beaches in the South, where jungled mountains sweep down into sky-blue seas
, Ajuruteua seemed somewhat plain with murky waters and vast expanses of tidal
sands. However, I now find its emptiness enchanting. There are rivers, lagoons
and miles of empty coast with wooden huts to be explored. Plus, there’s
kitesurfing!
Vila de Pescadores, next to Ajuruteua beach
A rainy day at Ajuruteua. These 'palafitas' - huts on stilts - have great restaurants on board
Lakes and mangroves on the road to Ajuruteua. I didn't manage to photograph any Guara, but here's a stolen photo:
Bragança also has a plethora of folk traditions, including
festivals, music and dance. It hosts the Marujada every year, a tradition
dedicated to the city’s black patron saint Sao Benedito which originated in 1798 when
slave communities took to the streets in song and dance and created an 'Irmandade' (Brotherhood) to celebrate their construction
of a church. The festival today is a month-long carnival of song, dance and red
and white dresses. The music of the Marujada is retumbao, which is played with large drums, a rabeca (a rustic violin typical of Braganca), and an onça, a drum played with a wet sock which sounds like a bear
groaning. There are also regional varieties of the many music and dances which
travelled over from Europe and were modified by the indigenous, black and caboclo
(mixed race) communities, such as xote
(some argue that this has roots in Scottish dancing), mazurka and forró (the name
of which apparently is a bastardisation of ‘for all’). Interestingly today, there is
little trace of African slave communities in Bragança. There are numerous quilombos
(communities of fugitive slaves) in the state of Pará, but on the whole the
state has little visible Afro-Brazilian presence.
Braganca's de Sao Benedito, which over looks the river Caete (below)
.
The traditional dress of the Marujada. The dance consists of much twirling and bowing, accompanied by percussion and the rabeca, but internet is too slow to load videos...
All in all, Bragança is not a bad place to be!
MGM National Harbor | Hotel & Casino | JTGHub
ReplyDeleteGet great rates on rooms from $49.99 삼척 출장마사지 to 의왕 출장마사지 $7750. For 부산광역 출장샵 the lowest price, simply 강릉 출장마사지 open a 충청남도 출장마사지 room at MGM National Harbor.